The lines I drew did not a picture make
And a silence filled up the empty spaces
The canvas lay still un-spoilt!
Friday, September 21, 2007
Canvas 2
The only color I saw on the canvas was white
The lines I drew did not a picture make
And a silence filled up the empty spaces
The canvas lay still un-spoilt!
The lines I drew did not a picture make
And a silence filled up the empty spaces
The canvas lay still un-spoilt!
Friday, September 14, 2007
Amritsar Diary
The SUV town
The first thing that struck me in Amritsar was the contradictory worlds that co-exist in that one place. When saw a hip 20 something in her tight three quarter jeans greet someone who looked like a stereotypical punjabi middle aged village woman, with an anglicized 'sat sri akaal'. Outside the airport, one can't help but notice the sheer number of SUVs plying on the road. Even if you were less attentive to vehicular traffic the loud punjabi music barring from inside these fuel guzzling monsters would catch your attention. The shiny new Taveras & Boleros share their road space with dusty, run down cycle rickshaws, the bajaj scooter from yesteryears and sometimes even tractors !
Push v/s Pull
Once inside, the town follows a circular path. To go from any point in the town to any other, one has to cross a short over bridge, or so it seems! It is easy to separate the outsiders from the native crowd at this point. They'd be the ones who'd give the cycle rickshaw driver a breather as he trudges with his vehicle up the bridge, walking behind him and sometimes even offering to help with a nudge, while the local punjabi women sit firmly atop - unaffected by his plight. With a smug look across their face they stare at the un-informed traveler who has offered to walk.
Golden temple at midnight !
I am not sure whether this is the only temple in India that is open all 24 hours. It certainly is the only one I know of! The crowd inside even as late as 10 pm is unimaginable. One would have to see it to believe it. There were easily a few 1000 people in there and that was not a festive day crowd. Langar (free food at the Gurdwara) is served to anyone who walks in. One of the locals there tells us - in big cities there would be many people sleeping hungry but in Amritsar I doubt anyone would go to bed on an empty stomach. People eat and even sleep inside the temple. Sitting alongside the sarovar (the water body that surrounds the sanctum) and watching the golden hues that reflect on pitch dark ripples, with the sounds of the gurbani reverberating in the background is a truly elevating experience !
A D-shaped well
Jallianwala Bagh does not reflect the character of place which once made history! It is more like a public park that one would find in an average Indian city with huge signboards at the entrance forbidding people from plucking flowers! The only reminders of the massacre - is the narrow lane at the entrance that prevented people from running out and the Well at one corner of the bagh which people jumped into, to protect themselves. Strangely the well is D-shaped unlike any others that I have seen. Covered with a rusty mesh an all sides it is difficult to look too deep into its gaping mouth. Though when cheeks pressed firmly against the mesh when one peeps in - you see at the bottom some shallow green water with coins glistening from beneath. I wonder what makes people throw coins in water bodies - and it is not just an Indian trait.
Marwari Dhaba
I had perceptions about Amritsar before visiting. I imagined a place with people having a strong gustatory orientation sipping thick lassi and eating tikkas at local dhabbas alongside the road. These are conspicuous by their absence. The only reflection of what might be people's food preferences here - is a sign board that announces - 'daily needs - kulcha and sweets'. We settle for a marwari dhaba for want of an alternative. Inside I see a predominantly south-Indian looking crowd. It is a disorienting feeling to be in the punjab heartland, at a marwari dhaba and see a south Indian populace! One look at the thaali and that explains it - for people visiting from the other end of the country a place that serves them rice, pickle, papad - would be a delight. Not to mention it is pure vegetarian ! The only thing missing was in their meal was the thair !
The first thing that struck me in Amritsar was the contradictory worlds that co-exist in that one place. When saw a hip 20 something in her tight three quarter jeans greet someone who looked like a stereotypical punjabi middle aged village woman, with an anglicized 'sat sri akaal'. Outside the airport, one can't help but notice the sheer number of SUVs plying on the road. Even if you were less attentive to vehicular traffic the loud punjabi music barring from inside these fuel guzzling monsters would catch your attention. The shiny new Taveras & Boleros share their road space with dusty, run down cycle rickshaws, the bajaj scooter from yesteryears and sometimes even tractors !
Push v/s Pull
Once inside, the town follows a circular path. To go from any point in the town to any other, one has to cross a short over bridge, or so it seems! It is easy to separate the outsiders from the native crowd at this point. They'd be the ones who'd give the cycle rickshaw driver a breather as he trudges with his vehicle up the bridge, walking behind him and sometimes even offering to help with a nudge, while the local punjabi women sit firmly atop - unaffected by his plight. With a smug look across their face they stare at the un-informed traveler who has offered to walk.
Golden temple at midnight !
I am not sure whether this is the only temple in India that is open all 24 hours. It certainly is the only one I know of! The crowd inside even as late as 10 pm is unimaginable. One would have to see it to believe it. There were easily a few 1000 people in there and that was not a festive day crowd. Langar (free food at the Gurdwara) is served to anyone who walks in. One of the locals there tells us - in big cities there would be many people sleeping hungry but in Amritsar I doubt anyone would go to bed on an empty stomach. People eat and even sleep inside the temple. Sitting alongside the sarovar (the water body that surrounds the sanctum) and watching the golden hues that reflect on pitch dark ripples, with the sounds of the gurbani reverberating in the background is a truly elevating experience !
A D-shaped well
Jallianwala Bagh does not reflect the character of place which once made history! It is more like a public park that one would find in an average Indian city with huge signboards at the entrance forbidding people from plucking flowers! The only reminders of the massacre - is the narrow lane at the entrance that prevented people from running out and the Well at one corner of the bagh which people jumped into, to protect themselves. Strangely the well is D-shaped unlike any others that I have seen. Covered with a rusty mesh an all sides it is difficult to look too deep into its gaping mouth. Though when cheeks pressed firmly against the mesh when one peeps in - you see at the bottom some shallow green water with coins glistening from beneath. I wonder what makes people throw coins in water bodies - and it is not just an Indian trait.
Marwari Dhaba
I had perceptions about Amritsar before visiting. I imagined a place with people having a strong gustatory orientation sipping thick lassi and eating tikkas at local dhabbas alongside the road. These are conspicuous by their absence. The only reflection of what might be people's food preferences here - is a sign board that announces - 'daily needs - kulcha and sweets'. We settle for a marwari dhaba for want of an alternative. Inside I see a predominantly south-Indian looking crowd. It is a disorienting feeling to be in the punjab heartland, at a marwari dhaba and see a south Indian populace! One look at the thaali and that explains it - for people visiting from the other end of the country a place that serves them rice, pickle, papad - would be a delight. Not to mention it is pure vegetarian ! The only thing missing was in their meal was the thair !
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